Kazakhstan - like France, but different

We have arrived in green and sunny Kyrgyzstan, a country as difficult for most people to spot on a map as to spell! We are settling in to the heaven sent Asia Mountains hotel complete with swimming pool, the boilers are working overtime after 4 nights bush camping. Time to get scrubbed up and presentable again.

One night in Tashkent gave us just enough time to ride in the beautifully decorated metro, originally built as a nuclear shelter, with each station designed differently, some completely tiled with blue hues reminiscent of the mosques in Uzbekistan and others with painted domed ceilings, definitely worth a trip. A select few then braved the renowned if rather seedy FM Bar, another must do apparently! The shock of the outrageously priced beer was slightly softened by the scantily clad ladies. No photos allowed in there either I'm afraid so you'll have to imagine that one for yourself.

Tashkent

Kev, Jody, Rowan & Jase

The following morning an early start and retracing our tracks South to cross the border into Kazakhstan, the borders closest to Tashkent all being closed to foreigners. Our first traffic offence of the journey, having not noticed the 50kph sign in a small town and speeding through at 58kph, a policeman suddenly stepped into the road holding up his orange truncheon indicating Hels should pull over. The policeman naturally went to the co-driver's side of the truck as opposed to the right side since in Uzbekistan they do things the wrong way round, and either not noticing or ignoring the fact that Rogan was sitting there without a steering wheel in front of him then asked to see his documents and driving license. After taking the rap in the form of a brief telling off we were on our merry way without a fine since in the policeman's own words, he was such a nice man.

There followed a lengthy border crossing into Kazakhstan involving a full body x-ray for Calypso displaying all her insides as mysterious dark shapes. Once through the heat of the day was upon us so we searched for a shady spot for lunch. Tricky when the land is flat as far as the eye can see with very few trees. Rounding a corner we spotted a vast disused warehouse which turned out to be perfect with a high roof and breeze wafting through.

Shady lunch spot

We then spent a couple of nights in Aksu Zhabagly National Park, located in the north western part of the Tien Shan Mountains and the oldest national park in Central Asia, established in 1926. Camping in the garden of Vladimir and Svetlana who run an NGO, a modest house with a homely feel, complete with vegetable garden, outside loo and fabulous mountain view. Even if it did sound a bit like Battersea Dog's Home at night when the village dogs started up. The following day we had an exciting drive up and over the hills to Aksu canyon. The road twisted, bumped and turned then climbed with sharp switchbacks strewn with perfectly sized rocks that were just asking to wedge themselves between our rear tyres. Once up on the plateau there were sharp hillocks to contend with, hoping the back of the truck didn't bottom out as we went up and down and tried to keep the tyres on the raised track. Finally reaching the start of the walk we peered down at the river at the base of the canyon then set off along the path. Slipping and sliding down the rubble path it was a welcome relief to reach the glacial river. The milky coloured icy water thundered under the foot bridge at the bottom of the gorge, a brave few dipped their faces in, others settled for a refreshing splash. What goes down must come up so slowly we set off back up the steep path and scrabbled our way to the top in time for a welcome lunch.

Aksu canyon

Reaching the bottom of the canyon

Chris vs crocodile

Before the big descent

Julia and Jim making their way carefully

Vladimir, our Kazakh guide

Laura at Bear Cave, conquering her fear after Turkey

Rogs & Jake the reindeer

Rowan, Ryan, Gareth & Betsy enjoying the Aksu hike

Rushing glacial river

Our third night in the area we moved to a picturesque spot high up on a hill overlooking the grassy plains. A beautiful camp with some trees providing shade and a small stream enabling us to do some hand washing. The afternoon was spent in various states of relaxation, book reading, sleeping and strolling around the countryside. However a small group thought they needed a bit more activity and when Gareth revealed his secret talent of Zumba dancing an afternoon workout was held behind the truck. They did specifically say no photos but it was such fun so we couldn't resist sharing a few.

Chris & Gill

Hopeful puppy

Table decorations

Jeff

Ryan, Dianne & Laura serving up BBQ chicken and potato bake

Zumba!

G Rod, the instructor

Our last night in Kazakhstan was spent bush camping near the border to Kyrgyzstan in a lovely grassy hollow out of sight of the main road and with another stunning mountain backdrop. A couple of local men drove past in a van and hopped out to greet us with two handed clasped handshakes and seemingly amused signed that we were camped on a dry river bed, which we already knew. They were followed by a herd of sheep and a shepherd on horseback cracking his whip, kicking up a dust cloud as they passed. Then after dinner another engine was heard coming along the track, the same van from earlier. It stopped again, the side door slid open A Team style and there appeared the men's families, women and children! Perhaps disbelieving when their husband's came home and said they'd seen a group of foreigners in a big blue truck setting up camp in the middle of nowhere. It did of course pour with rain in the night but thankfully we weren't washed away. In the morning it was time to leave Kazakhstan, we enjoyed our few days there even if there was no sign of Borat and perhaps more disappointingly finding out Chris hadn't packed a mankini in his dressing up bag.

Roadside honey stall

Loo stop - don't be shy!

We're lucky enough to be spending the next nine days here in Kyrgyzstan exploring the mountains, national parks and alpine lakes. We hear there's a German beer hall around the corner so that's where we're heading tonight. Time for some sausage and a few draught beers. Especially for Nick who just returned to the hotel accompanied by two policeman a few minutes after heading out to find a bank... “Rogan, I think I've just been arrested!”

Amazing cake!  Straight from the potjie pot...