Monday 14 May 2012

Crabs, bulldozers and bears

We left you on the afternoon of Nick’s birthday and what a time we’ve had since then!  The evening celebrations went off brilliantly with Nick providing each of us with multi-coloured glow sticks creating a festival atmosphere.  Using the next door restaurant's tables we sat in a civilized fashion and ate our BBQ chicken.  Later with tunes from the truck, balloons with lights inside and a boxer dog complete with glow stick, a version of volleyball was played, to an outsider we must have looked like a happy hippy commune.  Nick retired to his tent expecting a comfortable night’s sleep, however he woke at 4am and felt he was not alone.  There was definitely something there.  The boxer dog you think, but no.  Something altogether more sinister had crept into his tent to join him during the night.  A large crab.  We were camped by a very fast moving stream and the restaurant had a fish farm on site but nothing could really explain the presence of the crab.  Nick tweeted about his night the following day but due to predictive text, he inadvertently said he’d woken to find a large Arab scuttling around his tent.
Nick's cornflake birthday cake
Nick's birthday
The following morning was spent in Trabzon, a popular town with the Turkish and little tourism so wandering the markets was enjoyably hassle free.  We drove towards the border with Georgia in the afternoon, following the coast before heading inland and up into the tea hills of North Eastern Turkey.  The roads twisted and turned and ascended sharply meaning options were limited.  After a high pass we started to descend again and came across a clearing on one of the switchbacks with a couple of short logging tracks leading off.  We went up on foot to investigate and decided it would be a suitable camp for the night.  After a tricky reverse uphill off the main road we parked up and the group swung into action, tents off roof, tables out, bags off. The lower area of flat ground had been designated for camping and the higher area for cooking, eating and the campfire.  Just as all seemed well, an engine was heard roaring up the track, a dumper truck filled with rubble.  It charged down to the lower level and tents were hauled away from its path.  It promptly dumped its load in the middle of our camp.  The drivers, although friendly enough, didn’t speak any English, and moments later a 2nd truck turned up, then a 3rd.  Much sign language and nervous smiling later we ascertained there was only 1 more load due in this evening.  To our surprise this arrived followed by a bulldozer which seemed only to have been brought in to once again level our sleeping area!  The local workers seemed amused and confused as to why we wanted to sleep there, at first we thought they were gesturing for money but it turned out they were asking if we needed food, as of course we must be so poor if we couldn’t afford a hotel!  So the engines died down and we carried on setting up camp, thinking the excitement for the evening was over.  Laura trotted off into the nearby woods to find a quiet spot and came across an unexpected friend.  Not far from her in a clearing was a bear!  Much to everyone else’s disappointment when we went back to find it it was nowhere to be seen.  Laura was suitably spooked and chose to eat her supper in the truck.
Beautiful views down to Black Sea
Dumper Truck bushcamp
Landscaping the bushcamp
Ryan & Gareth find a flat place to camp
Setting up camp
The next morning, after a surprisingly good sleep, it was time to leave Turkey, we all leave with great memories from a country few would have listed as one they were particularly looking forward to initially.  Most would happily go back and see more.  A smooth border crossing into Georgia where we were met by Zaza, our local guide who will join us during our time in the country.  We had one night in the port city of Batumi.  Set on a warm semitropical coast with a backdrop of mist-wrapped hills.  Wandering the streets was a great introduction into Georgian style and architecture.  Attractive wrought iron balconies with plants growing out of pavements and up onto buildings.  The atmosphere was relaxed but it is clearly a City that is going places, with international hotel chains popping up along the sea front.
Batumi balconies
Batumi street 
The evening in Batumi was an all fall down night, due to the slipperiness of the dance floor and nothing to do with the 2 Euro 1 litre jugs of tasty Georgian wine.  The Georgian’s have a tradition when dining out and drinking.  It is polite to only drink when a toast is made, so the toasts are made often and can be lengthy.  With one person starting a toast, others can then add to it, whilst everyone waits til the toast is complete before drinking.  Needless to say the toasts got shorter and shorter and we’re sure a lot were forgotten.  Everyone danced and spun around the galley of the boat, the local Georgians impressing us with their dancing.  The men moving around the dance floor flamboyantly like figure skaters.  We did our best with some Scottish jigs and lots of falling over which seemed to amuse them.  There was a fairly large collective headache the following day.
Dancing the night away
Dancing in the galley
Kev, Jase, Ryan & Gareth making friends with the locals
Pip & Laura, the sailors
A lazy day’s start the following day, we headed up the coast and inland to a bush camp next to an ancient Georgian fort.  The sun shone on a relaxed afternoon.  To top off a great couple of days we were treated to a nighttime display of fireflies, silently flashing past and around camp, their abdomens glowing on and off.  Mikkel our resident animal catcher, who can list lamb and lizards as his catch so far, can now add cow and firefly, enabling us all to have a closer look at such a remarkable species.

We invited a solo Serbian cyclist who’d arrived at the fort during the afternoon to join us for supper last night.  Her name, translated into English; Snow White.  Let the fairytale continue!
Jody, Rowan, Ryan & Gareth
Kev & Jase
Ryan & Pip
Nap time
Lost in Turkey?

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