Sunday 26 August 2012

Morning Glory in Vietnam

Can two weeks have passed since we last wrote? I'm sure we're not still meant to be having this much fun but the good times keep on coming. We have just touched down in Cambodia after travelling in a cross border bus from Ho Chi Minh City to Phnom Penh, the country's capital. After spending 7 hours inside with blue sky and sunshine outside, at disembarkation time the heavens opened to add another dimension to our Apprentice style tuk tuk challenge. Rather than trying to organise the group into nine tuk tuks on a busy street, everyone was handed a piece of paper with the hotel address and a dollar bill and set the task of getting themselves there. There was sabotage aboard the bus, hooking bag straps onto chairs, aisle blocking, things got even dirtier outside, pushing drinks carts into the way to prevent rival tuk tuks from getting off the pavement, urging the drivers to go faster with extra dollars, who eventually got wind of the competition and joined in heartily, full throttle and adopting the tuck position. Nick & Ryan somehow managed to get streets ahead and by the time second placed Hels & Rogs arrived they were sitting on the verandah beer in hand!
The victorious Ryan & Nick
Tuk tuk challenge
Back to where we have been hiding for the last couple of weeks. The Imperial city of Hue was our first stop in Vietnam, set on the banks of the Perfume River, named after the tropical scent it used to bring down from the mountains, before the days of dredging sand to make concrete and being cleared of houseboats, meaning it has lost much of the colour and life that made it famous. On the North side of the river stands the Citadel, a large walled area with a previously forbidden city inside, access granted only to emperors, concubines and those close to them, the penalty for trespassing was death! Thankfully nowadays one can pay to enter and see inside. There was also an option to head out of town and visit the demilitarized zone, the dividing line between North and South Vietnam and an important battleground.
Cindy, Mikkel, G Rod & Ryan
Making traditional conical hats
Dragon boat on the Perfume River
Mikkel taking off with a rickshaw
Nick taking Di for a ride
Perfume River flower
Intricate and beautiful roof
Shrimp spring rolls
Statue in Hue
My, that's a lot of incense
On to Hoi An via a short stop at China beach where American GIs used to hang out and a chance to throw an unsuspecting Gareth into the sea. Hoi An, which translates as “peaceful meeting place”, apart from being in a prime position with the Mekong river on one side and the South China Sea on the other, our first sight of the ocean since Greece, the old trading port is now probably better known for its tailors. No sooner had the backpacks been delivered to our delightful rooms by the hotel porters (are we in the right place?) we were out being measured up for dresses, shirts and three-piece suits. Hoi An Ancient Town dating from the 15th to 19th century and a UNESCO world heritage site was also a lovely place to wander and admire the mix of architecture.
China Beach
G Rod gets dunked
But gets his own back on Nick
Fun and games in the South China Sea
Hoi An hotel
Beautiful windows and a lovely balcony at the hotel
Rog's monkey impression
Japanese covered bridge in Hoi An
Ryan & G Rod - guess who's been hitting the beach...
Taking a rest
Traditional Vietnamese hat
What's this?  Overland crew wearing a three-piece suit?  Surely a first?
Betsy & Cher don their new dresses for the girl's night out
Hoi An girl's night out
Shelagh in her tailored number
Shelagh, Rowan, John, Jeff & Laura
Pick your shirt - endless choice in the tailors
All suited and booted with bags bulging from our new tailored wardrobes we once again boarded a hired bus to take us further down Vietnam's snaking coast line to Nha Trang. The undisputed beach capital of the country. We must admit some of us had visions of a sleepy beach town with small collections of guest houses and hotels nestled on the beach. To our surprise we drove into a skyscraper laden bustling city spread out along 11 km of pristine white sand with the waves lapping the shores of this metropolis on the sea.


Our hotel, set back a street from the beach, afforded us views of the palm tree lined coast. A nice surprise was the vast roof top balcony which we took full advantage of to have a private Odyssey sunset rooftop party. Tables overflowing with snacks and various beverages set us up for a night checking out some of the town's buzzing bars and clubs.
Sunset enroute to Nha Trang
Roof top party
Pip & Laura
Talk to the hand...  Rowan & Jim
Cindy, Jim, John, Julia and Shelagh out for a curry
A lot of the group ventured out the next morning on our own private boat for a snorkelling trip enjoying some stunning reef marine life boasting every colour of the rainbow, starfish and the poisonous but flamboyant lion fish. Unfortunately Laura suffered from a touch of sea sickness and returned early but in glamorous style on a speed boat to seek terra firma. For some folk on the trip it was their first ever sub aqua experience and it was a great day out. Lunch included, we were spoiled with a massive buffet spread prepared and served on the boat, not even 14 hungry snorkellers managed to finish the smorgasbord of delights ranging from seafood to morning glory. Tans and flip flop lines returning up we are all rapidly getting into the swing of the relaxed beach life. 

John taking the leap
Nick's first time snorkelling
Pip's first ever snorkel too
Rogs pursuading Hels to jump
Rowan
Jeff
After three days enjoying Nha Trang the group were excited and surprised to find we'd hired a private sleeper bus for the long day's drive down to Ho Chi Minh City, still referred to by most as Saigon. The thinking was that a lot of us can't help but enjoy a bit of shut eye whilst on the road so why not have a near fully reclining seat to make it a little easier. With 40 beds to choose from bed hopping was rife from the upper deck to the lower and window to aisle.

Ryan sleeping like a baby
Saigon with a population of at least 7 million was our first real taste of a capital in South East Asia with hundreds of motorbikes and scooters taking pole position at all traffic lights. A sight to behold is to watch the way in which so many bikes carrying all manner of cargo from entire families to full on mobile shops can interweave with buses, trucks and cars seemingly pulling out without as much as a glance and coming off unscathed, amazing really and quite skilled. To fully experience how it works whilst in town some of us jumped on the back of the bikes using them as unregistered taxis, always a relief to reach your destination!
Saigon traffic
Are we there yet?
Our accommodation for the four night stop was the wonderfully friendly Madame Cuc's where we were treated to not only breakfast but also a simple dinner of noodles and spring rolls, not to mention unlimited bananas, tea and coffee. Plenty of sights and activities to keep us busy from visiting temples, war museums, underground Vietnamese war tunnels, water puppetry shows and boat trips on the Mekong Delta. We also celebrated our biggest birthday to date, Pip's 30th! Starting off with all piling into her room for present opening and ending up with some competitive bowling and drinks out. It seems the smaller the plastic chair the cheaper the beer. Makeshift bars open up in the evening along a narrow street, chairs creeping further and further into the road until vehicles struggle to squeeze through. Pip was last seen around 2am with a bucket of roses, borrowed from a street vendor, attempting to sell them to the revellers.

Worshippers in the Cao Dai Temple
Cao Dai Temple
Hels
Left eye at Cao Dai Temple
Cao Dai worshippers
Jody appreciating the local crafts
"Don't touch" signs always seem to have the opposite effect...  Laura, Pip, G Rod & Ryan
Mekong Delta
Floating markets on the Delta
Ladies who tea?
Notre Dame Cathedral, Saigon
Trap door, Cu Chi tunnels
Visiting the Cu Chi tunnels
Shells on display at the Cu Chi tunnels, a reminder of Vietnam's troubled past
Birthday girl Pip
Rowan, Betsy & Jody, circle of friends
What else could you want for your 30th birthday?
Celebrating
Rather snazzy bowling shoes
Cindy showing her pro technique
Busy street side bars
Now in Cambodia, our first stop is the country's capital Phnom Penh where we have three nights to venture out and visit the more sombre sights of the Killing Fields and S21 Museum as well as take in another new country, our 22nd of the trip, and enjoy what can only be described as a boutique hotel complete with jacuzzi on the roof terrace, far too smart for our liking!

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